Ocean wave theories

Contemplating Ocean Wave Measurements

This is a personal contemplation on the state of ocean wave measurement, historically, and with an eye toward the future. The conceptual basis which leads to the conventional wave measuring instruments has been in practice for over six decades which is basically single point observations of three-dimensional waves. We need new conceptual advancement and new instrumentation to rejuvenate our res...

Nonlinear Wave Theories

The Wave-Driven Ocean Circulation

Oceanic surface gravity waves have a mean Lagrangian motion, the Stokes drift. The dynamics of winddriven, basin-scale oceanic currents in the presence of Stokes drift are modified by the addition of so-called vortex forces and wave-induced material advection, as well by wave-averaged effects in the surface boundary conditions for the dynamic pressure, sea level, and vertical velocity. Some the...

Progress in ocean wave forecasting

Progress in ocean wave forecasting is described in the context of the fundamental law for wave prediction: the energy balance equation. The energy balance equation gives the rate of change of the sea state caused by adiabatic processes such as advection, and by the physical source functions of the generation of ocean waves by wind, the dissipation due to whitecapping and the nonlinear four-wave...

Ocean Wave Separation Using CEEMD-Wavelet in GPS Wave Measurement

Monitoring ocean waves plays a crucial role in, for example, coastal environmental and protection studies. Traditional methods for measuring ocean waves are based on ultrasonic sensors and accelerometers. However, the Global Positioning System (GPS) has been introduced recently and has the advantage of being smaller, less expensive, and not requiring calibration in comparison with the tradition...